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Turbo D15b

 
Stevo92
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 01/12
Posted: 01/15/12 10:24 AM

Ok im new to the site and pretty new getting into honda but im learning. I have a 2000 civic with a d15b1 swap which is vtec . my plan is to turbo it .

i talked to the machine shop near my house and i was goin to get it sleeved .
rods pistons bearings rings (machine shop would get them for me).

d16z6 apr headbolts.
new d16z6 head.
blox stage 2 d16z6 camshaft .
do i get a cam gear for a d16z6?
skunk2 intake manifold.
throttle body.
550cc injectors .
fuel pressure regulator.
fuel rail.
stage 2 cluthch.
lightened flywheel.
do i need vaulves/springs for my head and,
do i need a better crankshaft ??

and if so what vaulves do i buy and
where can i find the crankshaft for a d15b.

Also whats a good ecu . i was told the hondata s300 but looks exspensive i was wondering if there was one cheaper than 600 for maybe like 300 or something.

i already have all new gaskets , vaulve seals ,and o rings and .A 3" catback exhaust. is there anything else i need to do to the head or block before i put on the turbo kit . i planned to do a ebay dseries t3 t4 turbo kit cuz im in college and dont have a ton of money . i want to daily drive at around 9 lbs and be able to push about 15 16 lbs.

Please help me i want to do this right and not blow my motor . do i need any other parts before i tear it down and put all these parts on and add the turbo kit , and be able to handle 15lbs safely thanks!!  

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rob_51
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 01/10
Posted: 09/29/13 05:19 PM

okay. umm with the cam gear, no you dont need a z6 one...
witht the new d16z6 head. is it completed ( all stock with the stock cam, valves, springs retainer) if so, no you do not need valves or springs. but sence your getting a stage 2 cam, i would get new springs that match your cam so you can have more rpms ( stock springs can handle 7,800 rpm, aftermaker springs like zex, skunk2, blox, supertech will can handle around 9,000 rpm. just make sure its not a oem type spring)
no you dont need a better crank. if your getting new pistons, rods and flywheel. Just take the crankshaft out of the block and take you new rods, pistons, flywheel, and harmonic balancer (crank pully) and get it all balanced. then you will be good about going up to 9,000 rpm if you wanted to but make sure you get all new bearings, id go with ACL racing bearings.
with the valves, you dont need aftermarket valve, the stock ones are fine.
with the ecu, get a Chipped P28 ecu for like $150 (they come with a basemap. so when your ordering a chipped p28 ecu, tell them everything what you have done to your engine and what engine you have and they will make it where you can drive it to a tuner to get it tuned)( if you dont get a basemap, and you try to start your car, it WONT start because the upgraded injectors you installed) and then find a tuner. (someone that can tune your computer when you car is all put together, id go with a street tune, it costs around $100-$200 for the guy to tune your car, or you could dyno tune your car but its expensive around $400 an hour.)( or just get a basemap from XENOCRON.com so you can drive it safly untill you get money for a tune.) but before you get it tuned and start to rip on it. make sure you break in your motor first. its not hard to do. but a lot of people forget and then *** up the piston rings or it doesnt get a good seat where you would start burning oil and then your compression it the cylinder would be lost a little bit or a lot. .
.
when you said is there anything you need to do to the head. yes and no. if you get new valves. you need to get the valves seated. and if the head is warped. you would need to get it machined. but most likly, no you dont need to do anything to the head if you use the stock valve that came with the head...  

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