not to seem desprate ,HE HE  what do u have on your ride performence wise?  

Here's your answer to what you posted at 12:48 today. Yes, you should get a cheap beater while you create your art work. The fabrication on the Sentra is as follows;
1) Cutting the floor and replacing with the new 300z floor and rear section refab. and labor was about, give or take, $6,500 to $7,500.
2) Locating rear end was easy... got most of that stuff at the dealer and regeared it to my spec and needs. $800.00 with axles! Got a good deal in a package price.
3) The engine was found at the junk yard... actually it took 5 trips before I could find a block that wasn't cracked or damaged due to some kind of stress related issue to the metal. Ordering parts on line and at the dealer and redoing the block with a new head and related parts... $4,500, give or take. Oh, it was a SR20DE engine!
4) creating a new wire harness/loom and related electrical hardware, design and placement, was done by me, but it cost me, roughly, around $600.00 in parts.
5)Ricarro seats and frames that were custom set into the new floor set up $400.00, roughly with labor.
There was a lot that was done in shop by my techs and a lot that was done by me.
6)The transmission I had from an old 280Z and was refitted and regeared to my specifications.
7)Custom drive shaft was created at Ct. drive shaft inc.!
The rest of the build was either sourced out, due to other buisness engagements.
As you see it took a lot of parts and it sure took a lot of man hours!! In the end I was left with a nasty little 4dr monster pushing 500hp to the wheels and weighing in under 2,000lbs. Some tubular stuff was incorperated in as well for structual integrity. Whew! It took about 4 months for the build, though, with help. Give your self time and have patience... it will all work out in the end!  

On my rav, well... not too much was done. Most of the engine components are from the TRD parts book, engine management and the sort. Pistons are after market as are the rings, main shaft, cams, rods, caps, 88mm T-body with cold air system, 2" tubular intake, etc., etc.!
It's my daily driver so I haven't blown the horse power limits on it. It's decent @ 250hp, with 210lbft of torque! My previuos rav was destroyed in a rally a little over a month ago and I ended up with some busted up ribs. I was navigator at the time. Oops!  

so what heppened at the rally?  

i've looked at the power to the cavalier it comes stock with 140 hp but i don't know the lb feet of torqe it has . since you helped me with what i should start with now here's the real question. where on the motor sould i start with inside or do the easy stuff first?  

Well, since you want to have real horse power you will need to associate your self with a machine shop and an auto shop, assuming that your skill are limited. Most of the engine components will need to be replaced if adding a turbo or super charger; pistons, rings, crank, rods and the upper end will need some attention as well... cams valves springs port matching and polishing, etc. What ever will need to be done for  air and fuel needs and spent gas exiting! If you have a manual trans the clutch will need to be up graded and the transmission will need to be inspected for abnormal wear to the gears and regeared, if desired, to meet the new horse power gains. GM manual transmissions are pretty tough so I don't think that there will be any issues with gear integrity, only the clutch and fly wheel will need any real attention. The tech you will be working with will determine what will work best for your specific needs. I'm not getting too technical with specific ratios and the such 'cause those thing will be brought to your attention by the tech and machine shops that you will associate with. Every build is slightly different and my recommendations may not be what they accept so work closely with whome ever you choose.  Keep in mind that it will be a complete overhaul with performance stuff in the engine. Engine management, fuel needs and spark will also be determined by the tech per your requirements. Every thing is pretty cut and dry as far as the engine is concerned so please take your time with those details to the engine and driveline. After all that, consider where on the subfame will be needing attention to all those new stress forces. You don't want to stomp on some ones parade and find out the hard way that your sub frame and related parts snapped due to torque forces! Plan these things out with the tech!  

Listen, I can guide you through some ideas but, innevitably, it will be your needs and your wallet that will determine what will be done. Search carefully and wisely for some one who is well qualified and versed in tuning and building. Like I said before it is a crap shoot finding some one reputable in this buisness. I've redone a lot of crap work over the years and also have seen some truelly awsome things. It will be like living with eyes behind your head until the job is done. It is worse than having a new home built. I will never crap on another tech, though, 'cause there is always more than one way to get things done...  

it's not a crap shoot find for me be cause the area i live in there's someone who i just rememberd about and he builds his son race cars (CURTIS RACING) so once i get my ride i'll go talk to him to see who he went through like you said " the tuner shop will cost an arm or a leg or2".but i do know how to take the motor apart it's puting it back together plus i have a bad habbit of losing stuff.  

it'll be well worth it  

i hope!?  

geuse what ? I STRUCK GOLD FOR THE CAV!!!!! the only problem is it's automatic. do you know of any sites for a manuale tranny package.  

what the hell is a cleavit rod?  

I've never really done an auto to manual swap so, again, that will have to be worked out with whome ever you choose to do the job. I know that all you need to do is get all the needed components; clutch, fly wheel, transmission, axles to match, clutch master, the lines, clutch pedal and related brackets, if any...
You see what I'm getting at? It will be some work but not impossible. Most cars are made on one pattern so the only thing to do is, maybe, punch out any areas where a line or a cable may go through to compensate for the extra parts. They are already there for you to modify or punch out, if needed. Then al you would need to get would be the rubber grommets to help with sealing. You get thse at the dealer once you convert to manual. Assuming civic.slow dope has any other un-needed advice. He'll tell you to go Honda or worse... got to hell with the car.
Just go with your heart and build to your desires and taste and don't listen to dopes like him, if you should meet up with him on this forum. You will see what he's about for your self. I'm not going to add wood to that fire that is between him and I.  

Cleavit rod??? There are so many ways to call different parts of cars accross America that what I think it is may not be what it is. I beleive that it's the rod that is between the clutch slathe and the clutch rod... Don't take my word for it, though. Sorry I can't be more help there.  

Cleavit rod?? The terminology is different but I think that it is the rod that is between the clutch slathe and the clutch rod. Don't take my word for it, though, I could be wrong. The terminology that is used is varied across different states so my definition is skued, at best, for this part refference. Sorry I can't be of any real help on this.